Linen-covered tables topped with fresh coral roses and tableside French service by tuxedo-clad servers is what you experience at Le Périgord, as I did on my recent re-visit where I was their guest.

The food this time didn’t live up to the past. Although the rich lobster bisque ($12) had a flavor of lobster, neither a morsel of that crustacean was in the broth nor atop the soup as a garnish. In fact, nothing garnished the broth.  The foie gras chaud aux  fruits de Saison – warm foie gras with seasonal fruits ($32.00, up 20% since my last visit) tasted best served with a glass of Sauternes.

The tuxedo-clad waiter poured me a glass of Pays D Hérault Pont De Gassac Sélection Guibert 2013 to accompany the rack of lamb that I had requested with some asparagus instead of the accompanying veggies. Sadly my perfectly cooked to medium-rare rack of lamb waited — covered, so it steamed — while the server carved my dining partner’s duck à l’orange tableside so that when it was served, the lamb was almost room temperature, the accompanying pureed peas and sautéed spinach cold.  The flavor of the duck was good, rich but not fatty that oddly came with two starches (spätzle and wild rice) instead of a vegetable. Made no sense.

We asked for cheese for dessert, which was presented without sharing what cheeses were, and was garnished with an unripe (almost white) strawberry.

Sad to share that Le Périgord ain’t what it used to be.

 

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Le Périgord
405 E 52nd St
New York, NY 10022
(347) 508-4639
leperigord.com
Le Périgord on Urbanspoon