I was looking forward to sampling the Italian fare at the new Soho location of Bice Cucina. This restaurant originated in 1926 when Beatrice Ruggeri, known as Bice, opened a restaurant in Milan. Now her children and grandchildren run her restaurants around the world, including two in New York City. Bice Cucina SoHo is owned by Beatrice’s grandson, Raffaele Ruggeri, and his long-time friend, Peter Guimaraes.
We met Raffaele when we dined.
My friend started with a pinarita ($18) made with tequila and pineapple juice, I sampled the Bice Old Fashion ($17) made with Angel’s Envy, brown sugar, bitters and soda ($17), garnished with a dried orange slice. I’d crown this the best Old Fashion I’ve had in quite some time. Just the right blend of sweetness, alcohol and bitters.
Knowing how many dishes we were sampling at this comp food tasting, I tried to resist the basket filled with focaccia, breadsticks, beet (yes, fresh beet) bread and others served with fresh ricotta in tomato sauce. I sampled a smidgen of a few.
Our first starter was their fried lasagne (4 pieces for $12) garnished with a touch of tomato and fresh rosemary sprigs. Teeny cubes of the layered pasta dish are rolled in breadcrumbs then deep-fried. What’s not to like?
The chef first poaches the octopus for the carpaccio ($26) in a sealed pouch so it never touches the water, it’s then thinly sliced, attractively arranged on the plate, topped with arugula and peppers then drizzled with a lemon dressing. I recommend. We shared a bottle of the Tenuta Casteani Turione, Maremma Toscana with our meal.
The arugula salad with cherry tomatoes and shaved parmesan in lemon dressing ($16) cleared our palate before we indulged in their creamy layered lasagne bolognese ($26) covered in a rich bechamel.
Having fished in Alaska, I can never resist wild king salmon ($32) when I see it on a menu. It came with tomato-flavorful couscous and veggies drizzled with chipotle mayo. I prefer my seafood less cooked. We also shared the pan-seared rack of lamb ($46), cooked to perfection, with wild mushrooms and potato gratin in a port-wine sauce.
Even though we were full, how could we not try their ethereal tiramisu ($14), the coffee-soaked ladyfingers layered with mascarpone cheese and sprinkled with cacao powder? It didn’t disappoint, nor did their warm chocolate souffle with vanilla ice cream ($14).
I highly recommend a visit.
Bice Cucina
Soho
15 Watts Street
New York, NY 10013
646-609-6530
bicecucinasoho.com
sound wonderful.next time i a in the city i will be there. we need good italian food such as you exoerienced there. there is nothing like a restaurant no matter what ethnicity saying it is new york style. being a new yorked i have found that is when you avoid such a place. memories are great and i miss the city although the mess the mayor hs put it in will be a good time before i return.sad
I have to comment that I cringe at an Old Fashioned being called an Old Fashion. (A menu-cringe cousin of Ice Tea instead of Iced Tea.) 😬 A knock against the restaurant if that’s how they put it on the drink menu. Now, the food may be a whole different matter! 😂
Susan,
Thanks for your insightful thoughts.
I would tend to agree — yet I take my lead from the restaurant’s menu — where the drink is described at “Bice Old Fashion.”
Thanks again!