I stopped by the recently opened Gander recently for dinner in the space previously occupied by Alice Eighteen on West 18th Street in the 
Flatiron district. Chef Jesse Schenker (formerly of Recette) is behind this airy-spaced restaurant offering American fare, where low noise level allows for easy conversation.
We opted for the reasonably priced ($65) four-course prix-fixe meal that included a starter, pasta, main dish and dessert. A true bargain considering the prices of the entrees we ordered (duck breast and strip loin) were $34 and $42 respectively.
For starters, we tried two I’d recommend: a green salad with sliced 
grapes and snap peas in a light ranch dressing, topped with crispy calamari ($14) and, the tender grilled octopus over a bed of cocoa beans ($17).
For the pasta course, skip the dark lentil “risotto,” with snap peas, mushrooms and parmigiana reggiano ($23) with its odd consistency and off flavor. But do not miss the spaghetti and clams (littleneck, geoduck and razors) in a light bisque with hidden bits of fennel and crispy guanciale all topped with toasted crumbs! 
A spectacular melange of flavors.
I’d also recommend either perfectly cooked entree: The duck breast with black beans and rice, topped with pickled tomatillo and fresh cilantro ($34); or the dry-aged filet mignon over a short rib with fried maitake (also called hen of the woods) mushrooms and black garlic ($42).
We were stuffed by the time we got to dessert, but usually had room for at least a few bites. Not this time as we were least impressed with that part of the meal. We ordered two unremarkable desserts recommended by our waiter — the chocolate custard with an oddly effervescent egg cream and chocolate torte. These were so lackluster that I wonder whether Christina Lee the Executive Pastry Chef was in the house that day.
When I return, I will skip the 4-course meal and just have an order either the amazing spaghetti with clams or just an entree.
– bonnie
The Gander
Flatiron
15 West 18th
New York, NY, 10011
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