For those who don’t live in Connecticut (that’s most of you), SoNo is the nutmegger term for a neighborhood in the South of Norwalk. It’s a play on New York’s SoHo (that name btw comes from South of Houston). Both are artsy and both have lots eateries.

Early this month, while attended a press dinner for the opening of the restaurant,  I met Bruce Nevins and two of his sons, family owners of Osetra.  (I’m always a softy for family businesses.)

Chef Dave learned his craft working beside Todd English in Boston; wine director Doug — who runs the front of the house — also trained in Boston, while Bruce — their dad, a fourth generation in the food business — owns Grande Harvest Wines, the upscale wine boutique in New York’s Grand Central Station. (For those who ride the trains, the shop is just opposite track 17.)

The restaurant serves small plates offering unique combinations of flavors, textures and ingredients that are priced to share, three or four per course. The food, with a heavy accent on seafood, shows influence by the foods and techniques of the Mediterranean (Bolognese di Pesce, $6), French (White Asparagus Vichyssoise, $7) and New England (Caramel Fried Lobster, $17). And, Osetra boasts an extensive wine list, with over 50 wines by the glass ($7 to $18)— feasible with the use of a special vacuum system the Nevin’s have installed behind their bar.

Osetra 124 South Washington Street, South Norwalk, CT; Dinner only; 203.354.4488; www.osetrasono.com