African chants emanated from my computer as I clicked on the Merkato55 website to learn more about the restaurant before heading down to dine there. Wonderful sounds reminiscent of those I heard on my trip to Tanzania earlier this year. I wish I could report that my visit to Marcus Samuelsson’s African restaurant in the trendy meatpacking district of Manhattan was as good.

Marcus Samuelsson is the talented chef and co-owner at Aquavit (a Scandinavian restaurant located midtown). He was the youngest chef to receive a 3-star review from the NY Times and was named the Rising Star Chef (1999) and Best Chef in New York City (2003) by the James Beard Foundation. Knowing this, wouldn’t you want to try his newest place?

Sadly, our waitress seemed clueless both about the restaurant and the menu. We asked lots of questions and got few answers. The best edibles included a variety of marinated Moroccan olives ($6), some of the African breads (Benne, Za’atar, Meali $6) and the ice cream “sandwich” ($3) for dessert. Other than being in the fresh air under a still-bright late summer clear sky, nothing wowed me. My suggestion: if you’re in the neighborhood, stop by for a drink and a small bite; and for a fabulous meal go to Aquavit.

Merkato55, 55 Gansevoort, New York City 212.255.8555

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