The Beatrice Inn, known for its hearty whole-animal meat dishes created by Chef Angie Mar, is a white-tablecloth restaurant in the West Village. Yup! white tablecloths even dining outside. I met a friend recently for lunch, dining in their outdoor space.
I began with their refreshing Aperol spritz ($17) while we perused the small menu. We began by sharing Beatrice Inn’s housemade chicken liver pâté, a decadent spread of chicken liver cooked with onions and wine then topped with duck fat and served with housemade blackberry conserva, whole grain mustard and grilled thick-country toast ($16). It was yummy although I could almost feel my arteries hardening.
Chef Angie, knowing we were there, sent us their romaine and herb salad topped ($17) with smoked green goddess salad dressing and candied pecans.
For our entree, we sampled the “Champvallon de tête” ($39) an unusual, beef cheeks and veal pie in a light broth along with mushrooms all topped with sliced potatoes. The flavor reminded us of the bland homemade stews of the 60s. Their shoestring truffle fries ($12) come perfectly cooked with a sprig of fresh thyme.
On our way out we stopped at our neighbor’s table as they were delivered smoked (literally) drinks, fried kale, Hasselback potatoes and crispy fried chicken. They shared that only insiders — preCOVID regulars — know about it.
Next time that’s what I’d order, and there will be a next time as their atmosphere and service were good enough for me to want to return.
Beatrice Inn
Greenwich Village
285 W 12th Street
New York, NY 10014
917.566.7400
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