L’Express is a French bistro in the Union Square area serving Lyonnaise cuisine – it’s a sister to Marseille, another French bistro with Marseillaise dishes located in Hell’s Kitchen near the theatre district (630 9th Avenue to be exact).
We started with a glass of Beaujolais Village ($8) and a Cotes du Rhone ($9) as we awaited our first course. My major complaint was the minuscule wine portions.
The Warm Goat Cheese Salad ($8.95), though, was perfection and enough for two — it’s all I’d have on a return visit. Our soups that followed on the cold winter’s day were fine, but nothing special. They included a Tomato Soup, too creamy to finish $4.95 and a very bland green lentil and vegetable soup ($6).
249 Park Avenue South (at 20th Street)
New York, NY