Le Pavillion, Daniel Boulud’s latest restaurant, is located in the new skyscraper just north of Grand Central Station on 42nd Street. The building also hosts The Summit, with the second-highest outdoor deck in the city. The restaurant’s lush elegant setting, just two flights from the entrance, reminded me of the now-closed Four Seasons. Once seated I noticed the spectacular views of the Chrysler building thru the windows.

Instead of white tablecloths, the tables are covered with a white round sturdy (yet elegant) paper covering. The service was exquisite as I’d expect from a Daniel Boulud restaurant.

The prix fixe menu contains seasonal ingredients from both land and sea — terre et mare — with 2 courses $75, three $95. Worth it. Our server brought a variety of fabulous breads and deep yellow butter to nibble while we perused the menu.

My dining partner started with the yellowfin tuna tartare with fennel pollen, garnished with the naturally gluten-free socca crisps along with a side herb salad. As an octopus lover, I couldn’t resist ordering it grilled Provençale style with an artichoke coulis, capers and some greens in a sweet pepper vinaigrette.

Her entree was the Greenwalk Hatchery trout meunière (brown butter,  parsley and lemon) with Brussels sprouts and hen of the woods mushrooms in a red wine sauce.

Our server placed a bowl with poached halibut, whole shrimp, thinly sliced squid,  mussels in their shells, fennel confit and saffron potatoes on the table, then poured over a flavorful bouillabaisse sauce. The broth was flavorful but in need of salt. It also came with toasted rounds with a rouille (saffron, garlicky mayo).

The desserts were worth the calories, especially the decadent noisette chocolate with milk chocolate crémeux, crunchy praline and hazelnut nougatine decorated with wisps of dark chocolate. Also good is the Honeycrisp apple tart in puff pastry with bourbon vanilla ice cream.

I’d describe this as Daniel does on the site, dining that’s relaxed and inviting with refined elegance. I highly recommend.

 

La Pavillion
One Vanderbilt Avenue
New York, NY 10017
212.662.1000
lepavillionnyc.com