Could all the hype about Cosme be hype? I had heard rumblings that the restaurant wasn’t living up to all of that, so I had to see on my own. I dined there recently and had one of the most surprising, flavorful experiences that I’ve had in a long time!
We started with house made crisp blue corn tostados with Ha Sikil Paak, an irresistible traditional Yucatán salsa of pureed toasted pumpkin seeds, charred roma tomatoes, onion, garlic, habañeros, fresh cilantro, epazote, hoja santa, lime juice and salt. It’s so good I wanted to lick the bowl. While engulfing that puree, we sipped a Grüner Veltliner (“Strasser Weinberge” Arndorfer Kamptal, Austria, $56) light, with lots of refreshing minerality and hints green apple.
Do not miss the refreshing raw scallops and jicama rounds, with the scallops “cooked” in a fresh wasabi, lime juice, cucumber in aguachile, a chile pepper broth ($21) topped with thinly sliced serrano pepper and cilantro. Also amazing is the King crab with a Mexican gribiche (think: aioli) made from cornichons, serrano peppers, lime juice and grated hard-cooked egg, and served with unusual crunchy green garbanzo beans. topped with chervil.
I had to sample the “crispy” octopus. It didn’t disappoint, (although I wish there were more of it) swimming in an aromatic chile de arbol, hazelnut mole with pickled potatoes all garnished with watercress ($28). We also shared half pibil (dried chilies, spices) rubbed lobster served with housemade chorizo in a puddle of re-fried black bean purée ($26) along with warm housemade blue tortillas ($26).
With a light meal like this, we had room for dessert. I suggest the unexpected amazing combination of rich chocolate ganache, blood orange sauce topped with a beet sorbet ($14).