Chefs Chris Cannon and Chris Jaeckle prepare Venetian style food with a Japanese influence at All’onda on 13th Street in the Village. Most of the dining tables are upstairs in this bi-level restaurant, although you can sit at a communal table or the bar at the ground level.
While looking over the menu, we requested the help of their Sommelier. We had all sorts of parameters: dark fruit, with nice acid, full bodied and savory not sweet and a cap of $50, as I love finding hidden gems on wine lists. He suggested a perfect bottle for us, a Rosso Piceno 
Superiore Il Brecciarole, 2011 ($45) from Marche, in central Italy on the eastern side. The Montepulcino gave us the darker berry fruit and the Sangiovese gave it that lift with good acid, between medium and full-bodied. I’d recommend it, as we were quite pleased.
We started with three arancini, fried moist risotto balls with bits of black truffle on the inside served in a puddle of rich parmesan sauce ($12), a fonduta for dipping.
Next we had the strongly flavored Spanish mackerel, cured in brine, on sweet golden raisins and pine nuts, in a velvety pureed fennel, white wine and orange juice sauce flavored with saffron ($16). The roasted carrots were tender, as they should have been, with a light delicate ricotta sauce in a slight cumin-ginger vinaigrette ($15).
The disappointment was the so called eggplant parmigiana with miso, parmesan, tomato and lots of crumbs. It was way overpriced for the small portion and parts of it too undercooked ($21). The roasted maitake – hen of the woods – mushrooms flavored with shio kombu edible kelp ($9) was fabulous. Don’t miss it.
– bonnie
All’onda
Greenwich Village
22 East 13th St
New York, NY 10003
(212) 231-2236
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