I met a friend for lunch recently at Pulino’s, an Italian trattoria that captures the energetic spirit of the Bowery. This bustling place is a Keith McNally restaurant — some others include Balthazar (SoHo), Pastis (Meatpacking District) — with executive chef Tony Liu manning the kitchen.

We started with a puree of fava beans ($9) with garlic and olive oil, topped with grilled chopped chicory, served with paper-thin crackers pane carasau drizzled with olive oil.  Worth the trip alone as was the fresh appetizer portion of eggplant parmigiana ($12). That consisted of layers of breaded eggplant slices, tomato sauce, mozzarella and grana sitting in a puddle of fresh tomato sauce — all  served with fettuna (grilled bread rubbed with garlic, sprinkled with salt and drenched in olive oil) with the plate drizzled with basil oil. Heavenly.

I was content with those antipasti, but my dining partner — who recommended the place — wanted the Insalata Nicoise ($17), her perennial favorite. It’s a salad Nicoise a top a pizza crust made using Balthazar Bakery’s mother dough. Meaning, the dough is topped with seared tuna, herbed potatoes, green beans, tomato wedges, radish slices, fresh pesto, hard-cooked eggs and fennel.  She loved it, I thought it needed more flavor. I’d still — though — highly recommend Pulino’s. I’d just recommend selecting  a different main dish.
– bonnie

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Pulino’s
282 Bowery
New York, NY 10012
Cross Street: E Houston Street
(212) 226-1966
Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria on Urbanspoon