The latest of Bobby Van’s group is BV’s Grill that just opened Midtown on Third Avenue. When I visited as their guest, I found it to be the warmest of all the Bobby Van’s places I’ve tried. It has more casual modern neighborhood feel.
We selected the Domaine Ragot, Givry 1er Cru, La Grande Berge, Burgundy ’08 ($80), a classic Pinot Noir rich in flavor that would hold up to both the steak and seafood. It was the perfect match.
Each of the apps I sampled are worth the trip alone. The simple pretzel balls are irresistible, especially dipped in the rich (AKA fatty) mustard sauce, made from mustard, butter, heavy cream, some white wine with red pepper seasonins; (Five for $5). Their crab ($17)cake is mostly jumbo pieces held together with a thin bread crumb layer. Amazingly crab. The (3) seared crispy scallops are a melange of textures and flavors. They’re sprinkled with bread crumbs then topped with crisp prosciutto and sitting in sat in a puddle of tapioca topped parsley puree ($18).
I say skip the salads, at least based on the couple that I tried. The kale, barley, broccoli rabe, citrus sections and sliced oyster mushroom salad begged for seasoning ($14). While the huge chunks of lobster and crab and slices of oyster mushrooms along with mixed spring greens came drowning in a flavorless housemade rémoulade dressing ($26)
The aged NY strip steak was cooked perfectly as ordered, red and juicy ($42). There was no need for the caramelized onions or homemade cherry steak sauce that accompanied it as the meat was perfect on its own. The veggie ($9, each) I’d suggest is the roasted cauliflower au gratin as neither the Brussels sprouts with bacon or grilled asparagus tasted fresh.
Also perfect — not to be missed — is the fork-tender Chilean sea bass in an Asian broth with lots of bok choy and other veggies. Yummy $32).
Be sure to try the moist coconut layer cake, made daily by BV’s in-house baker. Skip the dry chocolate pecan torte was too dry. But do try their house made soft ice cream.
– bonnie
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BV’s Grill
Midtown East
919 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10022
212.935.6800
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