When in the mood for French classics, I’d recommend a visit to Le Gamelle, a recently opened bistro under the direction 
of consulting chef Michael Burbella and executive chef Denis Kuc. I was invited in to sample their seasonally changing menu.
Our amuse was two slices of housemade garlic sausage with good bread with a chewy crust as I love it. For apps, we had their classic escargot. Every time I’m served escargot with the tongs, I smile thinking of Julia Roberts’ shell flying across the room into the waiter’s hand as it popped out of hers. But I 
digress…these traditional snails are not to be missed. They’re drenched in the traditional garlic parsley butter ($12/6) that we sopped up with the crusty bread. Their roasted baby octopus ($18) is simply grilled and served in a citrusy sauce with lots of herbs.
Do not miss their delicate aromatic branzino, ($32) 
pan-seared — crisp around the edges and moist in the center— over a citrusy fennel confit with cherry tomatoes, artichokes and olives. I’d go back just for this dish and for one of the best cauliflower au gratin I’ve ever had. Not with an overwhelming amount of cheese, but a delicate mornay sauce made with gruyère letting that veggie shining through ($9). The roasted Brussels sprouts ($9) with mustard seeds were fine, but not as good as the cauliflower.
The roasted duck ($28) breast was cooked as requested — medium rare — with crispy skin and a side of mashed potatoes. Since I’m a pommes frites addict, we had to sample theirs ($9) — after all, we were at a French place. The potatoes are hand cut, fried 
and served with a Dijon mayo; we requested ketchup. Oddly they weren’t crisp enough.
When told about that evening’s special of the bouillabaisse ($34), the classic seafood stew from the South of France, we asked for a small portions to try. If it’s if offered, do not miss the abundant fish — branzino, shrimp, clams, mussels and scallops — in their garlicky broth.
For dessert, we tried the upside down apple tart tartin served with vanilla cream ($10) and the evening’s special of the chocolate maive, a rich chocolate mousse sitting on bed of walnuts and almonds ($10). We each kept taking another bite as we put on our coats to skedaddle to the curtain
of Head of Passes at The Public Theatre with an award-worthy performance by Phylicia Rashad.
La Gamelle is open for dinner daily and on Sunday for brunch 11 to 4 pm. I’ll need to head back that. I suggest you add this to your places to try.
– bonnie
La Gamelle
Bowery
241 Bowery
New York, NY 10002
(212) 388-0052
Leave A Comment