L’Apicio in the East Village is worth the trip downtown for great food with in a quiet welcoming space.
My visit was almost perfection — other than the cocky waiter who was fabulous on the detailed description of offerings (he actually loved listening to himself talk), then sadly he disappeared once he poured our white wine, never even returning with the promised chiller.
We only had time for a couple of dishes — not a full meal — as we were on our way to an early NY Times Film Club showing of Merchants of Doubt at the Sunshine Cinema on East Houston a couple blocks away. But we did have time for a bottle of Vermentino La Costa di Giulia: Michele Satta 99 (Tuscany, $50).
We started with the comfort food polenta board ($18) of textured cornmeal mush with smoked paprika and cumin spiked pork meatballs snow-covered by grated cheese and dusted with parsley .
We then indulged in trofie e nero — short, hand-rolled squid ink pasta — made cacio a pepe style (literally cheese and pepper, $20) with Meyer lemon, Parmesan, Pecorino and a healthy amount of black pepper. And what made with dish even more special was the addition of tender strips of braised octopus and — for a textural crunch — toasted bread crumbs.
The kitchen sent out a complementary dish of housemade ravioli filled with roasted parsnips in a delicate butter sauce, sprinkled with cheese and garnished with minced fresh parsley leaves. It — and the other pasta – were so delicious we used our crunchy crusted bread to wipe the plates clean to sop up every last drop of their luscious sauces.
I’d highly recommend a visit to the restaurant, but skipping the interesting film that ran on a bit too long.
– bonnie
L’Apicio
East Village
13 East 1st St. (@ Bowery)
New York, NY 10003
(212) 533-7400
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