A friend gave me a gift of a meal at The Gander, Chef Jesse Schenker’s newest place on 18th (He’s best 
known for the former Recette); I had dined once before when it first opened. While looking at the menu, I requested a spicy Mexican mule made with jalapeño-infused mezcal, my friend had a traditional Cosmo. With those drinks tried their signature mozzarella wrapped in tender brisket, formed into “tots” topped with a crisp green apple disc and 
served with mustard ($13).
Our “fork & knife” Caesar ($14) contained large crisp leaves of endive, radiccio and romaine with a puddle of lemony parmesan dressing, garnished with red onion rings. The best dish of the evening — one that I’d go back for — is the pesto-coated orecchiette with crumbled fennel pork sausage, fresh fava beans and lots of hen of the woods mushrooms ($19). A wonderful melange of flavors.
With our entrees we ordered a number of sides including the fries (listed as an app); a spicy grilled broccoli with shishito peppers, seasoned with salty bottarga and topped with toasted almonds ($17); the roasted cauliflower topped with capers and anchovies; and the skippable (at least that night) fried baby artichokes ($10) that still had too many outer leaves, 
making them inedible.
Also inedible was our duck breast with a rhubarb and blueberry sauce as it was served cold; our waiter took it back to the kitchen and returned it somewhat reheated but not much better. We left all of the $31 breast slices. The dish to order is the tender branzino with black trumpet mushrooms topped with some Japanese dashi broth at the table ($28).
I had called the restaurant to ask them to put a candle or a “happy birthday” on one of the dessert plates for my dining partner. I arrived first and confirmed that on my arrival. Sadly neither of our 
desserts ($14) was lit with that celebration indicator, but both were nicely presented and tasty. The chocolately one contained chocolate cake, chocolate caramel mousse, butterscotch cream, and some espresso gel, the almond one with some macerated strawberries topped with 
some refreshing yuzu basil ice cream.
– bonnie
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The Gander
Gramercy-Flatiron
15 W 18th Street
New York, NY 10011
(212) 229-9500
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