I headed to Clinton Hill, Brooklyn to the newly opened Pilar Cuban Eatery, as they invited me to try their new expanded menu. We started with their steaming-hot savory empanadas, turnovers made fresh every morning ($9 for two). I liked the flavor of the picadillo with ground beef, sofrito (garlic, green & red pepper, tomatoes, onions, olive oil) and raisins over the slightly salty bacaloa (salt cod), potatoes with sofrito. I’d suggest skipping the hand-rolled potato, leek & gruyere fritters (croquetas $5), and focusing on the empanadas.

The flavor of the Galician white bean soup with chorizo, ham hocks, collard greens and potatoes, and seasoned with salt-pork ($7) would have been a meal in itself. Sadly it was serve lukewarm, but overflowing withflavor.

The two dishes that may have been good were served slightly warm, almost room temperature — not a safe way to consume meats. We sampled the pernil ($14), marinated roast tender pork served with white rice a small amount of black beans, ripe sweet caramelized plantain (maduros). The manager was giving us small portions so that we could sample lots of dishes, so I can’t report to you about the yucca fries that should come with it as we had none. The Vaca Frita or shredded skirt was served with almost raw onions, white rice and plantain but was missing the menu-stated black beans and avocados ($18). It, too, was tepid.

But I would go back for the pressed Cuban classic sandwich ($12) with roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, mustard on Cuban bread that came with plantain chips and a small salad. Or the Cuban-style paella — with creamy Andalusian saffron-spiced rice (not dry as in Spanish paella) with shrimp, clams and mussels ($24). They also have a version with chicken and house-made chorizo ($26).

Most dishes were missing some menu-stated ingredient so I can’t be sure whether you’ll get them if you go. But I do suggest you give it a try if in the neighborhood.

 

– bonnie

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Pilar Cuban Eatery
Clinton Hill
397 Greene Ave
(Greene & Bedford)
Brooklyn, NY
718-623-2822
Pilar Cuban Eatery on Urbanspoon