CITY EDITIONS   

Kellari, New York

June 5, 2012

Like other good Greek restaurants, Kellari displays its fresh fish on ice and sells it by the pound, simply grilled with olive oil and a squirt of fresh lemon juice.  They serve housemade hummus, kalamata olives and fresh radishes as you peruse the menu.

But first we started with their pililia, a hearty housemade assortment of savory spreads ($15.95) — including tzatziki and taramosalata — and chips.  And an order of octopodi – marinated sushi-grade charcoal-grilled tender octopus ($18.95) so plentiful it could have been my entire lunch. Wanting to save room for my fish, I took the  spreads and octopus home for another lunch!

Lavraki (whole) grilled sea bass, deboned, with crisp skin and moist flesh with a side of wild steam greens.
The branzini (another word for Lavraki) was tender… but the greens gritty! I would have mentioned it to the waiter, but he disappeared after he served us. I left my greens on the plate, and savored each bite of the perfectly prepared grilled sea bass washing it down with a glass of Assyrtiko Santorini 2010 (#83 in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2011)
- bonnie

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Kellari Taverna
19 W 44th St
New York, NY 10036
(212) 221-0144
kellari.us

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