CITY EDITIONS   

Jeffrey’s Restaurant, Milford

December 20, 2012

Although lots of people love dining at Jeffrey’s, I’m not one of them. The service is good, the food not bad — it’s just that the chef tries too hard.

The perfect way to describe Jeffrey’s entrees is with the Yiddish word “ungapatchka,” — busy, over-done with excessive elements. With so many ingredients, the flavor of each gets lost.

First, let me back up to our appetizer. We shared a braised chicken quesadilla ($11) with black beans and melted mozzarella served with salsa, guacamole and creme fraiche. Plebeian. Skip this.

My pan-seared artic char (See if you can find it in the photo!) was tender and succulent ($28.50).  It was served over “apple & orange fennel and caper relish,” with mashed sweet potatoes, stir-fried bok choy, spinach and beets (golden and red) all in an orange ginger sauce containing huge, thick slices of fresh ginger.

The sea scallops came two ways: one herb dusted and the other pan-seared. They wereserved with grilled mango, braised cherry tomatoes, carrots and other veggies in a  passion fruit buerre blanc with lobster and truffle oil infused whipped potatoes ($27.50).  Neither the lobster or truffle flavors were apparent in the potatoes. What a waste!

The only word for both entrees: ungapatchka

Their creme brulee — crusty on top, creamy underneath — is perfection! At least we delighted in a sweet ending.

- bonnie
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Jeffrey’s Restaurant By Claudio
501 New Haven Ave
Milford, CT 06460
(203) 878-1910
Jeffrey's on Urbanspoon

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