Ever experienced a culinary illusion? That’s the whole idea behind Farzi, named for the Hindi word for “illusion.” The menu is full of playful, unexpected dishes that mix classic Indian flavors with modern techniques and global inspiration. It’s all the work of Executive Chef Gaurav Chawla, who grew up in New Delhi and is making a name for himself with his inventive take on modern Indian cuisine and molecular gastronomy.

A friend and I were lucky enough to sample his incredible fare as guests of the restaurant. Our introduction was a kiwi-fennel amuse-bouche served on a dramatic, smoking tray. It is meant to be taken like a shot. It instantly dissolved into an explosion of flavor evoking liquid olive memories. Those legendary molecular gastronomy creations made iconic by Ferran Adrià at El Bulli and are now served at José Andrés’ Mercado Little Spain. Yes, that good.

Imagine 100 layers of potatoes, pressed into a cake, fried until crisp. That’s the start of their potato chaat served in airy masala yogurt cloud, drizzled with chutneys and finished with crisps, pomegranate and fresh greens ($19). Don’t miss that—or the Guntur Chilli Chicken Bao ($22), featuring two pillowy Korean buns stuffed with chicken flavored with fiery Guntur chilies from South India, served with house fries dusted in a masala spice blend.

The flame-grilled lamb chops ($43), served in a curry leaf emulsion, were unfortunately too fatty for my taste—our only disappointment of the night. David, our attentive server, brought lollipops (our second palate tickler) to cleanse our palates between courses. We definitely needed a breather since we were already getting pretty full.

Next up was the Oh, My Cod ($45), a coconut-chili-rubbed black cod served with a puddle of raw-mango sauce, and my absolute favorite, the smoked Lal Maas lamb shank ($44) with meat falling off the bone. The sauce was so delicious that we sopped up every last drop with the garlic naan ($8) and Ghee Jeera rice ($9), wishing we had ordered more naan. I happily took home the leftover lamb in a doggy bag.

Somehow, we still managed to save room for Farzi’s signature dessert, Dakshin, a coconut-forward creation with curry leaf mousse and coffee-caramel sauce, topped with a delicate crystal-sugar crisp.

The meal ended with a playful little surprise: a white chocolate bonbon with a soft paan (betel leaf and sweet fennel) center that bursts with flavor the moment you pop it into your mouth.
I highly recommend getting fooled at Farzi.

Farzi
Tribeca
78 Leonard St
New York, NY 10013
farzinyc.com/
646-499-9040