My friend returned from Paris with a craving for Cacio e Pepe ($27). Since Novita has long been one of our favorite neighborhood Italian restaurants—for its warm hospitality as much as its consistently good food—it seemed like the perfect place to meet.

We settled into a table on the patio, sipping refreshing Aperol Spritzes and nibbling on warm bread while catching up. It was the perfect way to ease into the evening.

She couldn’t have been happier. Novita’s take on the classic Roman dish is deceptively simple: Pecorino Romano, freshly cracked black pepper, and starchy pasta water come together to create a rich, silky sauce that clings beautifully to every strand of pasta.

My green and white tagliolini with Kobe beef Bolognese ($32) wasn’t quite as successful. In hindsight, I should have mentioned it to Michelangelo and given him the opportunity to prepare another plate. That’s on me. The pasta seemed a bit overdone, and the Bolognese lacked the bright, freshly made flavor I’ve enjoyed on previous visits. It struck me as an off night rather than a reflection of the kitchen’s usual standards.

One less-than-perfect dish won’t keep me away. Novita’s gracious hospitality and consistently welcoming atmosphere have earned my loyalty over the years, and I’ll happily be back.

Novita
Flatiron
102 East 22 Street
New York, NY 10010
(212) 677-2222
novitarestaurant.com/