Each June, the three of us pick a new restaurant to celebrate two of our birthdays. Over the years, we’ve been lucky—we’ve yet to dine anywhere where we didn’t enjoy both the food and the service.

This year, our destination was Borgo, a Mediterranean trattoria tucked where NoMad, Flatiron and Gramercy meet.

My visit started with a misstep. I opened the wrong door and found myself standing in the service kitchen. A handsome chef smiled, gently explained that I was in the kitchen, and graciously escorted me through the proper entrance to meet my friends in one of the restaurant’s two dining rooms.

That warm welcome made me smile. Unfortunately, the service at our table wasn’t quite as polished. Our first three dishes—the spring lettuces, buffalo mozzarella and fava purée—arrived before our wine. Having almost half our meal on the table before a sip of wine felt rushed.


Fortunately, the food quickly won us over.

The spring lettuces ($21), lightly dressed and topped with shavings of Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, were fresh and beautifully balanced. Thick wedges of creamy buffalo mozzarella ($28) were paired with smoked cherries and hazelnuts for a wonderful contrast of sweet, smoky and crunchy. The silky fava purée ($19), crowned with marinated escarole, was simple, vibrant and thoroughly satisfying.

The next round of appetizers was even better.

The chicken liver crostini ($21), served on grilled sourdough, was rich, silky and so good I’d happily return just for that dish. The vitello tonnato ($26)—paper-thin slices of veal beneath a creamy tuna sauce—was beautifully executed. Our favorite may have been the vignarola ($26), a spring vegetable stew topped with a panko-crusted fried poached egg whose golden yolk enriched every bite.

Dessert ended the meal on a high note. The Sachertorte ($18), layered with chocolate, almond and apricot, was excellent, but the real standout was the heavenly mint stracciatella ice cream ($14), refreshingly light and the perfect finish.

Borgo has earned a Bib Gourmand designation from the Michelin Guide, recognizing restaurants that deliver exceptional quality at a good value. Based on the cooking alone, it’s easy to understand why. I only wish the pacing of our meal had matched the care that came from the kitchen. Even so, several dishes were memorable enough that I’d gladly return.

Borgo
124 E 27th St
New York, NY 10016
646-360-2404
borgonyc.com/