Melissa Clark’s review of Lola’s in The New York Times inspired me to book a table with friends—I’d been looking for a fun spot I hadn’t tried yet.

Lola’s is the very first restaurant from executive chef and owner Suzanne Cupps, who’s sharpened her knives (and her skills) at spots like Annisa, Gramercy Tavern and Untitled. Lola means “grandmother” in Tagalog—Suzanne’s way of honoring her own Filapino heritage. She opened the doors about a year ago.

Some stand-out dishes included: the Paraiso house salad—crisp gem lettuce, buttermilk ranch and (my favorite detail) crunchy pretzels ($24). We also devoured heritage pork dumplings nestled with baby bok choy, tamarind, Thai basil and a tangle of fried shallots ($37).

Not everything on the menu nods to the Philippines—Cupps’s South Carolina roots peek through, too. Take Gumbo roasted oysters (8 for $27) with chow chow relish, the crispy chicken thighs ($26), paired with crunchy cabbage, fermented hot honey and coconut vinegar or the melt-in-your-mouth Southern BBQ short rib ($41), served with baked beans, collard greens and potato chips. Both dishes are pure comfort.

For desset, we sampled everything on the menu: a silky leche flan with passion fruit caramel and blueberry preserves ($12), a brown butter miso chocolate chip cookie (served with a little cup of oolong milk, $10) and a chocolate pudding cake topped with whipped cream, coco jam and black sesame brittle ($13).

I recommend Lola’s, if you can handle the noisy vibe.

Lola’s
Flatiron
2 West 28th Street
(at Broadway)
646-941-4787
lolasnyc.com/