I was sure we would have to wait — a long, long time — as Momofuku Ssäm Bar is known for its lengthy lines and — as the ’08 New York City Zagat guide says — “crushing crowds.” Add to that, David Chang was mentioned in today’s Times and was the guest on Charlie Rose last night.

Oddly he was quite boring as an interviewee, where his food is anything but…. I found it a surprising blend of fresh flavors that danced in my mouth. Some favorites from the multi-course tasting menu we tried included: Steamed buns (slices of pork belly, hoisin sauce, cucumber and scallions on steamed crustless bread), Pan-fried skate (seasoned with Old Bay, served with roasted fingerling potatoes, ramps and a spicy aioli), Eckerton Hill Farm’s Tomato Salad (juicy heirloom tomatoes, fried tofu and opal basil).

Also oddly, we got right in. The secret? Do what no New Yorker ever does and go to dinner at 5 pm when it opens. (Pretend it’s lunch!)

Momofuku Ssäm Bar, 207 Second Avenue, 212.254.3500.

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