When I’m the guest of the chef-owner I know I’m in for a treat. Maria Loi asked me to stop by her year-old restaurant Loi Estiatorio for a bite. She’s one of the newest fellow Dames — a member of Les Dames d’Escoffier, a philanthropic society of professional women leaders in the food, wine and hospitality industry.

The first dish was something I hadn’t had before — a  gooey dip made from caramelized tomato, feta, yogurt, olive oil and oregano (tyrokafteri) that arrives in what looks like a plastic pouch (pougi) still warm from the oven. Next came Maria’s spreads (pililia), combining classic ingredients that satisfy the soul, including an eggplant dip (melitzanosalata), hummus and tzatziki. Lucky New Yorkers will soon be able to buy some of Maria’s spreads at Whole Foods!

Then, we cleared our palate with her lightly dressed romaine salad ($13, marouli) before eating the tender octopus topped with onions, peppers and capers in red wine over a heavenly fava purée ($19). I could have stopped by then as I was happily satiated, but am glad I didn’t.

Do not miss Maria’s succulent version of the classic eggplant casserole ($24, moussaka). Hers is made with beef and one of the lightest bèchamel sauces I’ve ever tasted. I’d go back for that any day.

Next we were served traditional branzino with braised greens. We both left much of that, knowing a housemade dessert sampling was next — baklava, chocolate cake (sokolatopita), shredded phyllo with custard (ekmek kadaifi), Greek yogurt with honey and walnuts and walnut cake (karydopita)

 

– bonnie
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Loi Estiatorio
Midtown West
132 W 58th Street
New York, NY 10019

Loi Estiatoro Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato