I returned to Gabriel Kreuther. I was there the month he opened when I was wowed by the food, while the service was off.
Our mistake was to sit in the middle of the dining room where it was so noisy that I couldn’t — without straining — hear my dining partner sitting directly across from me.
The amuse at GK were interesting takes on classics, Especially good were the marinated king crab in a leek vinaigrette and the pumpkin “shake” with pomegranate. The breaded mozzarella balls were more plebeian.
We all chose the prix fixe two-course for $58; the best of our starters was the poached foie gras with pistachio and dried cranberries.
Sadly, the expensive (a $15 supplement) lobster with smoked potatoes in a coconut emulsion was under-whelming. I expected it to be charred on the outside as it was described as grilled Maine lobster. Instead it was a water-logged with no grill marks.
The best option was the crispy crusted bonito-crumb king salmon atop chestnuts, cauliflower and mushrooms flavored with ancho chile. A close second is the perfectly roasted duck breast.
This time the service was 5-star, but the food was lacking that pizazz that elicits the “wow! we experienced first time there.
We did indulge in a decadent dessert — the chocolate caramel, chocolate mousse with caramel ice cream and chocolate “wings” — which was worth the calories.
– bonnie
Gabriel Kreuther
41 West 42nd Street
New York, NY 10036
(212) 257-5826
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