Although we had made a reservation exactly a month in advance, our “table” at Fusco, Scott Conants first sole NYC restaurant in about a decade, was along the front window counter sitting side by side looking out at the passerbyers on 20th street diagonally across from Gramercy Tavern. That would have been fine, other than the table of five screaming women at the only other table in the front. They were so loud, we couldn’t hear each other.

I always wonder why I order anything but apps as they are generally better than the entrees. At Fusco that was true. We sampled the soft shell crab ($24), heirloom tomatoes with cucumber and whipped feta artfully positioned on a half tomato ($22) and the irresistible smoked mushroom sugo over polenta and truffles ($28). If the latter is still on the menu, do not miss. Rich and heavenly.

Not to be missed is Scott’s casconcelli, pasta with oxtail, horseradish, garlic sauce & sunflower seeds ($25). We shared the lobster gnudi (similar to gnocchi, but made with ricotta instead of potatoes, $26) in an anchovy-garlic butter and oil sauce topped with roe.

The pricey entrees were fine. I might order the black bass with zucchini, wheat berries and mushrooms ($30) again if still on the menu, but not the duck ($38). Was plebian and too undercooked to cut or chew. We liked both the side of yogurt carrots with cucumber and black sesame seeds($13) and chunks of eggplant with asparagus ($13) with edible flowers and roasted pine nuts.

I hear the menu changes at least monthly — so you might not see many of these dishes. I’m betting the mushroom sugo and oxtail-horseradish casconcelli will still be on the menu; if they are don’t miss.

– bonnie

BonnieBOTB

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Fusco
43 E 20th St
New York, NY 10003
212.777.5314
Fusco Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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