Chefs

Foodie Holiday Gift for only $9000

With most every other food story focusing on saving consumers money, I had to laugh as I opened the email touting this ultimate holiday gift for the gourmet.

For that $9000 really only $8999 — you get 2-hour, private cooking lesson with chef Jean-George Vongerichten in the kitchen of his eponymous restaurant, Jean Georges; 3 nights with arrival on a Thursday in an Executive Park View Suite at Trump International Hotel & Tower New York, a 3-course meal for two, breakfast for two daily and — of course — a signed cookbook.

Jean George is his New York Times 4-star and Michelin 3-star French restaurant housed in Trump Tower. He's also the talent behind JoJo (Mediterranean), Vong (Japanese), Spice Market (Asian), Perry Street (New American) and Matsugen (Japanese).

This offer got me thinking. Perhaps I should offer a private 2-hour cooking lesson in my kitchen, a multi-course dinner, a couple nights in a quiet New England suburb, breakfast daily with signed copies of my six cookbooks for the rock-bottom holiday-gift price of $1500. Any takers?

A Taste of Bespoke with Arturo Franco-Camacho in New Haven

"Day boat scallops smell fresh, like sweet milk," explained Arturo Franco-Camacho, owner andTB_Arts_Arturo.jpg creative chef of Bespoke (New Haven, CT) as he began his demonstration of porcini encrusted sea scallops served with a cauliflower puree, fava bean shiitake ragout and truffle vinaigrette. The demo was the first stop on the "Elegant American & Contemporary French Masters" restaurant tour at the International Festival of Arts & Ideas.

I stood right behind Arturo so I could attempt to look over his shoulder as he cooked. I tried to jot down each and every action so I could share the details. Here goes:

Porcini Encrusted Sea Scallops Served with a Cauliflower Puree, Fava Bean ShiitakeTB_Arts_Scallop.jpg Ragout and Truffle Vinaigrette

Score (make small cuts in) each scallop, season with salt, and sprinkle each side with porcini dust. (For the dust, pulverize dried porcini mushrooms using a clean coffee grinder.) Sear the scallops in a half canola oil and half clarified butter (butter that's been melted and separated to remove the milk solids enabling you to cook with it at higher temperatures).

"I like them medium rare," he said as he placed the seared scallops over a bed of cauliflower puree. Arturo suggested blanching the cauliflower and letting it cool completely before pureeing it. He cautioned not to chill the veggie on ice or the cauliflower could get watery. Arturo suggested thickening it with some cooked potato, if you do end up with a too thin puree.

Arturo tossed the shiitake and oyster mushrooms and fresh fava beans for a quick saute into the hot pan he used for the scallops. Next he made the vinaigrette: he started by adding chopped shallots to the same pan to caramelize them, tossed in some diced peeled and seeded tomato, champagne wine vinegar, Dijon mustard and — the final touch — a few drops of aromatic white truffle oil.

Add a squeeze of fresh lime juice to balance the flavors and/or a pinch of butter to emulsify the warm vinaigrette, he suggested. And always season with salt and pepper. He then tossed in freshly chopped tarragon and chives, drizzled the vinaigrette over the plated food and topped it with frizzled julienned leeks.

Phew!

Arturo mesmerized the tour group with his demo, which was only topped by the tasting of the scallops. Pure heaven.

After typing this up for you, I've decided instead of suggesting you try to make this at home, enjoy this dish along with the hospitality and good service that accompany it at Bespoke.

Bespoke, 266 College Street, New Haven, CT 203.562.4644

Photographs by Robert Hyde

James Beard Foundation Awards at Avery Fisher Hall

Kim Cattrall (yes, that Kim) and Bobby Flay co-hosted the James Beard Foundation Awards ceremony last night, at a star-studded red-carpet event at Avery Fisher Hall, Lincoln Center. Some notable winners from last night include:

  • Danny Mayer's Gramercy Tavern (NYC) - Outstanding Restaurant
  • Central Michel Richard (Washington, D.C) - Best New Restaurant
  • Gavin Kaysen, Cafe Bould (NYC) - Rising Star Chef of the Year
  • The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (Ten Speed Press) - Cookbook of the Year
  • Eleven Madison Park (NYC) - Outstanding Wine Service
  • A special note about my friend Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor (Ten Speed Press) winning the best Baking and Dessert cookbook

For the complete listing of all winners visit JamesBeard.org

The eating frenzy that followed the very long (over three hours!!) ceremony celebrated "Artisanal America: the Craft of Cuisine" and included samplings from over 30 chefs from across the country for the over 1800 foodies who attended the gala. Some delectables included:

  • Alexandra Guarnaschelli: Salt-Cured Local Foie Gras with Warm Strawberry-BlackTB_JBAwards1.jpg Pepper Jam and Arugula **
  • Scott Peacock: Buttermilk Biscuit with Sweet Butter, Country Ham and Homemade Georgia Strawberry Preserves
  • Sam Hayward: Maine Finnan Haddie Chowder
  • Mourad Lahou: Bodeda Goat Cheese with Tomato-Citrus Jam, Pistachios and Argan Oil**
  • Peter Hoffman: Rabbit Roulade with Fava Bean, Mint and Olive SaladTB_JBAwards2.jpg

**PS: As you may have noticed from these food photos, the tastings weren't served on china - but on disposable (wood-like — not styrofoam) plates, served with a wooden fork. Unfortunately, the food doesn't look very attractive….but trust me — some were quite spectacular tasting!

Baked Apple BBQ

I don't know how the chefs did it. The temperature hovered around 98-degrees in Madison Square Park — and that was standing in the long lines, not near the blistering hot BBQ grills where the pitmasters did their craft.

The crowds didn't seem to be fazed by the heat at the sixth annual celebration of mouthwatering barbecue — some waited hours to sample the foods that the 14 top pitmasters produced for the event. Smart New Yorkers purchased a $100 fast pass — the food equivalent of E-Z pass — that got them to the fast service area with a much shorter line. Worth it for the time savings alone.TB_BigAppleBBQ_3.jpg

My favorite BBQ of all I sampled was adorable Chris Lilly's pulled pork shoulder bbq sandwich served with mustard coleslaw (Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, Decatur, AL). Chris's sauce was almost as sweet as he TB_BigAppleBBQ_1.jpgis.

I downed almost each and every morsel — and that's after making the rounds to many of the others pitmasters including Ken Callaghan's Kansas City ribs (Blue Smoke, NYC), Jim Hagood's pulled pork shoulder (BlackJack BBQ, Charleston, SC), Ed Mitchell's whole hog with cole slaw (The Pit, Raleigh, NC) and City Grocery's Smoked Crawfish & Okra Hush Puppies.

Yes, yes, I did consume quite a bit of BBQ, so once it was over, I walked a couple miles in the heat (stopping occasionally in air-conditioned stores) to walk off those many delicious calories.

TB_BigAppleBBQ_2.jpg

(In this photo, foodies might recognize food writer Ed Levine salivating while Chris Lilly chopped — with a humongous cleaver — the meat for our sandwiches.)