A trip to Bouley in Tribeca overwhelms the senses. The aroma from the almost thousand apples lining the wooden shelves of the tiny atrium hits you as you walk into this restaurant. T
he dining rooms elicit elegant French country romance, feeling like upstairs at Downton Abbey.
We opted for the choices from the five-course tasting menu — each of us having different tastings and wine pairings ($110). First, a light tomato coulis with red pepper gelee, feta cheese, basil and a Meyer lemon cloud of foam to tickle our tongues, and another plate with two crisps. One, a cheese gougères, the other a power-packed explosion of flavor — a Japanese kuzu cracker topped with aligot (potatoes and cheese) then black truffle pate.
The wine chosen to go with the roasted Santa Barbara beet terrine layered with organic sheep and goat’s milk cheese, a bit of spinach, beet coulis and herb salad was a perfect match. Not so with the wine the Somm chose for the Malibu sea urchin served in a spiny shell as a parfait layered with house made soy pana cotta, yuzu gelee (sorbet). granny smith apple mousse and top
ped with golden osetra caviar (a $13 upcharge).
The Weingut Lackner Tinnacher Gelber Muskateller, Sudsteiermark clashed with this sweet dish, being possibly the worst wine match I’ve ever experienced. We chatted with the Somm, who graciously changed the wine and said he’s re-try the combo in the kitchen.
Next we were served a choice of more bread — slices from a variety of loaves. Odd but mighty tasty with the then served slab of heavenly French butter.
We selected the next two dishes with the highest of recommendations from our 
server who said they were signature items. The treasure of wild mushrooms with garlic, grilled toro in a black truffle dressing danced with flavors; but the crab porcini flan lacked flavor even with the black truffle dashi.
The dish not to miss is the slow-braised Kobe braised beef cheeks prepared in a goulash manner that fell apart as eaten; the tender blue kale sheep’s milk gnocchi sopped up the sauce. Good — but not as spectacular as the New England black sea bass with summer squash.
Oddly the next two courses were desserts; first a choice of a palate cleanser sorbets/granites that would have gone better after the appetizer. When the Somm stopped by we again asked whether he had tasted the mismatched combo; he did not.
Our final course was gelato. After a granite? Yup. This Columbian coffee chocolate one was rich and refreshing, but not after the ice. More of a dessert are the raspberries with lime meringue in a basil cloud. Of course, there was the plate of tiny pastries and chocolate.
And when we left we were handed a rich, moist pound cake to enjoy later. According to our server, about every 10 years chef David Bouley revisions, retools, re-concepts. So if you want to go, do so soon as Bouley will be closing in a few months for up to a year and a half.
– bonnie
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Bouley
Tribeca
163 Duane
New York, New York 10013
(212) 964-2525
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